Good morning from a beautiful day in the Galilee at Bethsaida. Our virtual tour of Israel continues around the Sea of Galilee where Jews and Christians have thousands of years of heritage. Our first stop brings us to the ruins of what was once a major city in the biblical kingdom of Gesher, the homeland of King David’s wife, Ma’acah. The name of the city was Bethsaida, meaning “house of fishing.” Today, though, if we stand in the ruins and look at the Sea of Galilee, the lake seems quite far away for this to have been a fishing town. But back in the day, the water level was closer to the town and the land around it would have been very fertile, making it a versatile location. Unfortunately, it was destroyed by Tiglat Pilesar III, in the Assyrian conquest of 732 BCE.
At some point, the town was rebuilt and Josephus recounts that in the year 30 CE, Phillip, son of Herod the Great, raised the village to the status of a Greek city and renamed it Julias, after the late Emperor Augustus’ wife. Phillip died four years later and was buried in Bethsaida. Josephus Life 71-73 Bethsaida was hometown to at least three of Jesus’ disciples; Peter, Andrew and Philip.
Representation of Jesus’ disciples. Photo credit: Free Bible Images
Many miracles were performed here including the healing of a blind man, and most probably the site of the feeding of the 5,000 mentioned in all four gospels. But the most profound scripture in the New Testament regarding Bethsaida is that it was one of the cities Jesus cursed.
“Then Jesus began to denounce the cities in which most of his miracles had been performed because they did not repent. ‘Woe to you, Korazin! Woe to you, Bethsaida! If the miracles that were performed in you had been performed in Tyre and Sidon, they would have repented long ago in sackcloth and ashes. But I tell you, it will be more bearable for Tyre and Sidon on the Day of Judgment than for you. And you, Capernaum, will you be lifted up to the skies? No, you will go down to the depths. If the miracles that were performed in you had been performed in Sodom, it would have remained to this day. But I tell you that it will be more bearable for Sodom on the Day of Judgment than for you.’” Mt. 11:20-24
This is quite an unnerving prediction to be sure. Let’s take a glimpse of what became of Bethsaida after the time of Jesus of Nazareth.
In the 2nd Century, there was a Rabbi by the name of Shimon bar Yochai, Rashbi for short, who had a Beit Midrash (House of Study) here in Bethsaida. Rashbi was a prominent figure in the Jewish world; the student of the great Rabbi Akiva and the teacher of the compiler of the Mishna, Rabbi Yehuda HaNassi. Rashbi’s legacy includes the writing of the Zohar, the foundation work of what would become the Kabbalah. There is a story in the Mishna that tells of a couple who came before Rashbi who had been childless for 10 years. They wanted to get a divorce. Rashbi said that before he would issue a get (divorce certificate) they had to celebrate as though it was for a wedding feast. The man got drunk and told the wife she could take the thing she loved the most from their home to her father’s house and keep it. He passed out and woke up the next morning in bed at her father’s house. He said, “What am I doing here?” And she said, “You are what I love the most from our home.” What great advice Rashbi gave to this couple!
As time went on for Bethsaida, we hear very little; just a mention during the time of the Crusades in the 12th century, and then nothing. Bethsaida was never re-discovered until 20th century modern day archaeology. Dr. Rami Arav discovered the ruins in 1987 and started excavations in 1990. Here we stand amongst the ruins of biblical history and wonder what became of the city that Jesus denounced.
Bethsaida is one of the most frequently mentioned places in the New Testament. Photo Credit: Ancient-Origins.net
Our second stop is not far from Bethsaida, to the ruins of Korazim. Just as Bethsaida, this city was also denounced by Jesus in Matthew 11. But let’s see what the archaeological finds of this city can tell us. Korazim was a Jewish town renowned for its good wheat in Talmudic times (200-500CE). In the 16th century, Jewish fishermen used to reside here. The town’s ruins are spread over an area of 25 acres, subdivided into five separate quarters, with a synagogue in the center. The ruins at the site include a large, impressive synagogue which was built with black basalt stones and decorated with Jewish motifs. Close by is a ritual bath, surrounded by public and residential buildings.
The synagogue is a site to behold. The dating of the synagogue begins in the 3rd century, which is consistent with Talmudic times. It was destroyed and rebuilt in the 5th-6th century. The plan is basilica style (like the one in Capernaum/Kfar Nachum) with a main hall, nave, two side aisles, separated by pillars and benches along both sides. It faces south, towards Jerusalem, the common direction synagogues still face today.
What is unique to Korazim is that in the synagogue was found the “Seat of Moses” carved out of limestone, with an Aramaic inscription from 250 CE. There have been many of these seats found in the archaeological remains from ancient synagogues in Israel. The earliest direct literary reference to a synagogue “Seat of Moses” is actually found in the New Testament:
“The scribes and the Pharisees have seated themselves in the chair of Moses; therefore all that they tell you, do and observe, but do not do according to their deeds. For they say things and do not do them.” (Matthew 23:2-3)
The house of Peter was found beneath the foundations of this octagonal Byzantine church at Capernaum. Photo credit: Longroom
My parents used to say, “Do as I say, not as I do.” I guess there is nothing new under the sun!
So what can we glean from these two towns in the Galilee? We know that profound teaching took place in both cities. Jesus of Nazareth taught and performed miracles in them and was frustrated with the hypocrisy of the Jewish leadership and the lack of faith of the people. Rashbi taught in the synagogue in Korazim and was well-versed in performing miracles, as well. He was sent to Rome to attempt to have the ban on Jewish observance officially lifted by the emperor (Antoninus Pius). The Talmud tells us that the daughter of the emperor was possessed by a demon, which Rabbi Shimon exorcised, and subsequently, the ban was lifted.
Now, we stand amongst the ruins of two cities whose stories have impacted people for more than 2,000 years. It is a privilege to live in this time in history where we can hear the stories and stand in the places where great men shared great wisdom. May their teachings and their lives continue to influence and inspired the multitudes.
Until we meet again, blessings from Israel!
The Sea of Galilee at sunset. (Israel Travel Company)