Last week we took a journey to Jerusalem and had a snapshot view of its complicated past. Today, we continue our journey on the Mt. of Olives looking at an incredible view of the Old City of Jerusalem where past, present, and future come to life.
Looking at the great expanse of the Temple Mount in all of its glory is a site to behold. The foundation that we see was built by Herod the Great in the 1st century CE as a reconstruction project to enlarge the existing site of the Jewish 2nd Temple built in the 6th century BCE. That Temple was destroyed by the Romans in 70 CE and then the massive 144,000 sq. meter Temple Complex stood in ruins for over 620 years. What we see today on the Temple Mount is the stately golden Dome of the Rock, built in 691 and the Al Aqsa Mosque, built in 705. Both mosques are being used today for prayer and worship for the Muslim community. This compound is considered the 3rd most holy site to Islam and is claimed exclusively for Muslim use, and denying that any Jewish Temple ever existed there.
The re-built Hurva synagogue, Jerusalem
Looking beyond the Temple Mount, we can see the white dome of the Hurva, the grand synagogue originally built in the early 18th century. The Hurva Synagogue was destroyed by the Arab Legion in 1948, during the War of Independence, when the Jews lost the entire Old City to the Jordanians. Jews and Christians were not allowed to enter into the Old city for 19 years until the Jews retook control in 1967 during the Six Day War. When the Jews arrived back into the Old City, much of the Jewish areas had been destroyed. This led to major underground excavations and above ground new construction. Today, the Jewish Quarter is a lovely place to visit, where homes, shops, restaurants, and historical sites are interwoven into a 2,000-year-old mixture. And as recent as 2013, the Hurva was rebuilt to its original beautiful state and serves the Jewish community as a place of study and prayer.
Just beyond the white dome of the Hurva Synagogue, we can see the grey domes of Church of the Holy Sepulcher, located in the center of the Christian Quarter. The church was built by Helena, Emperor Constantine’s mother, in the 4th century and is still venerated as the place where Jesus of Nazareth was crucified, buried and resurrected nearly 2,000 years ago. The church has been renovated many times throughout its tenure but never been destroyed. Christian pilgrims flock to the church by the thousands each and every day to get a glimpse of this holy place.
The Southern Steps leading up to the Temple Mount in Jerusalem. (wikipedia)
From the Temple Mount looking to the left, we can see the remains of a monumental stairway that lead to the Temple Complex where the Jews would go to the Holy Temple to give their sacrifices 2,000 years ago. It is possible to stand on those very steps today and imagine what it would have been like to make the journey up to Jerusalem and then up to the holy mountain where the Holy of Holies once stood, and where Jesus gave his sacrifice before his Last Supper. Astronaut Neil Armstrong said that experience was better than going to the moon!
If we were to stand on those steps and look across the street to the south, we would see the ancient City of David, where David and Solomon had their palaces 3,000 years ago. Excavations have been underway for over 100 years on this site; every year revealing more and more historical and biblical context. The last 15 years have been a treasure trove of discovery, with the finding of the 2,000 year old stairway leading from the Pools of Siloam (mentioned in the New Testament in the Gospel of John) all the way to the Temple Mount and the finding of the Israelite Palace (of David) and the 3,000 year old city wall leading to the Temple Mount, built by King Solomon. These finds are not only incredible; they make biblical history come to life.
Today, looking beyond the walls of the Old City, we can see parts of Jerusalem built during the British Mandate; the King David Hotel, the YMCA and the Palace Hotel, which has now been renovated into a Waldorf Astoria. We can see the skyline of modern Jerusalem with its tall buildings, shops, and hotels. And we can see the government offices off in the distance, reminding us that the eternal capital of the Jewish people is and always will be Jerusalem.
“See, a day of the Lord is coming when they will make division of your goods taken by force before your eyes. For I will get all the nations together to make war against Jerusalem; and the town will be overcome, and the goods taken from the houses, and the women taken by force: and half the town will go away as prisoners, and the rest of the people will not be cut off from the town. Then the Lord will go out and make war against those nations, as he did in the day of the fight. And in that day his feet will be on the Mount of Olives, which is opposite Jerusalem on the east, and the Mount of Olives will be parted in the middle to the east and to the west, forming a very great valley; and half the mountain will be moved to the north and half of it to the south. And the valley will be stopped and you will go in flight as you went in flight from the earth-shock in the days of Uzziah, king of Judah: and the Lord my God will come, and all his holy ones with him. And in that day there will be no heat or cold or ice; And it will be unbroken day, such as the Lord has knowledge of, without change of day and night, and even at nightfall it will be light. And on that day living waters will go out from Jerusalem; half of them flowing to the sea on the east and half to the sea on the west: in summer and in winter it will be so. And the Lord will be King over all the earth: in that day there will be one Lord and his name one.” (Zec 14:1-9)
This prophecy has yet to be fulfilled. These are sobering words. It is a terrifying warning of days to come. And yet, Jews and Christians, alike, are waiting for its fulfillment. Whether one is waiting for Messiah to come (Jews) or to come again (Christians), we must pray for the people of Jerusalem.
This week begins the Jewish New Year (Rosh Hashanah). Israel is bustling with visitors and tourists who have come to celebrate in the Holy City. It is a time of joy and gladness and a time for family and friends. It is also a time to reflect on one’s deeds past and present and set things right if there have been wrongs. And it is a time to look forward and not backward. May the people of Israel have a good and sweet new year – “Shana Tova u’metuka”
