Photo credit: HWS Jaffa Port
Welcome back to our virtual tour of Israel. Last week we learned about the early history of the Jaffa port up until the time of the Assyrian Empire in the 8th century BCE. This week we will continue the rest of our historical tour through the beautiful Old City of Jaffa. The seaport thrived under Hellenistic (Greek) rule until the Roman King, Herod the Great, built a bigger, better seaport up the Mediterranean Coast at Caesarea. Well, it was bigger and better until the Caesarea port sank 200 years later! Nonetheless, Jaffa continued to be used as a port even during those days.
During the Great Jewish Revolt against the Romans in 66 CE, Josephus writes that the city of Joppa was burned, and 8400 of its citizens were massacred by Cestius Gallus (Jewish Wars II.18.10). However, the Jews revived the town about 40 years later, unfortunately, only to be slaughtered first by the Byzantines, then the Muslims, then by the Crusaders. There was a Jewish traveler, by the name of Benjamin of Tudela (1170 CE), who wrote that “he found just one Jew there [in Joppa], a dyer by trade.”
After the Crusaders, came the 2nd Muslim invasion in 1250, this time by the Mamelukes. They ruled until 1517 and then the Ottoman Turks took over for another 400 years, with a short stint takeover by Napoleon in March of 1799. After the Ottoman Turks were conquered by the British in 1917, the British stayed only until May of 1948 when Israel declared Independence.
Jaffa streets Photo Credit: GPSmycity
Most of the buildings we see today were built during the Turkish Ottoman Empire. They are made from sandstone, called Kurkar. This sandstone is so strong that these 400 year old buildings should still be standing for hundreds of years to come. On our way into town, though, I want to stop at a beautiful overlook of Jaffa and Tel Aviv. In the courtyard stands a sculpture called the Gate of Faith, by Daniel Kafri in 1977. It symbolizes the move of our ancestors to the Promised Land. It has the appearance of an ancient city gate, with pillars on each side and a mantel over the top. One pillar represents Abraham and the sacrifice of Isaac and the other of Jacob’s ladder dream. The top beam depicts the conquest of Canaan by Joshua and shows the priests carrying the Ark of the Covenant over the Jordan River and into the Promised Land.
Gate of Faith Photo Credit: Wandering Carol
Let’s take a stroll through the cobblestone streets of Old City Jaffa. A suspended Orange Tree sculpture hangs in a small alleyway, as a reminder of the Jewish plight. Jaffa oranges were the primary citrus export out of this seaport for the better part of the 19th and 20th centuries. So it was very befitting that the artist, Ran Morin, used what the city was best known for as the focal object of his work. He planted a living orange tree inside of a large sculpted orange and hung it in suspension by two chains. Morin said, “My growing sculptures show a ‘rooted-uprooted’ state while going on living, much as we do, growing into an unclear future.” This is such a life lesson; to keep living and keep growing even in the face of adversity or uncertainty. This is something to strive for, for sure.
Ran Morin’s orange-tree live artwork Photo Credit: Opsgram
We continue through several alleys and past artist galleries, jewelry stores and tourist memorabilia shops. Descending a narrow staircase into the heart of the Old Jaffa will take us back some 2,000 years to Simon, the tanner’s house. This became a Christian sacred site in the 4th century, but the actual building was built by the Turks in the 18th century. The New Testament tells a story about a vision that a man named Peter had. Peter was one of Jesus of Nazareth’s most beloved followers. This story happens after the death of Jesus while Jews were still under Roman rule.
“At Caesarea there was a man named Cornelius, a centurion in what was known as the Italian Regiment. He and all his family were devout and God-fearing; he gave generously to those in need and prayed to God regularly. One day at about three in the afternoon he had a vision. He distinctly saw an angel of God, who came to him and said, “Cornelius!” Cornelius stared at him in fear. “What is it, Lord?” he asked. The angel answered, “Your prayers and gifts to the poor have come up as a memorial offering before God. Now send men to Joppa [Jaffa] to bring back a man named Simon who is called Peter. He is staying with Simon the tanner, whose house is by the sea.”
Jaffa port classic balcony Photo Credit: Gordon Tours Israel
When the angel who spoke to him had gone, Cornelius called two of his servants and a devout soldier who was one of his attendants. He told them everything that had happened and sent them to Joppa. About noon the following day as they were on their journey and approaching the city, Peter went up on the roof to pray. He became hungry and wanted something to eat, and while the meal was being prepared, he fell into a trance. He saw heaven opened and something like a large sheet being let down to earth by its four corners. It contained all kinds of four-footed animals, as well as reptiles of the earth and birds of the air. Then a voice told him, “Get up, Peter. Kill and eat. Surely not, Lord!” Peter replied. “I have never eaten anything impure or unclean.” The voice spoke to him a second time, “Do not call anything impure that God has made clean.” This happened three times, and immediately the sheet was taken back to heaven.
The old city of Jaffa Photo Credit: Green Thumb
While Peter was wondering about the meaning of the vision, the men sent by Cornelius found out where Simon’s house was and stopped at the gate. They called out, asking if Simon who was known as Peter was staying there. While Peter was still thinking about the vision, the Spirit said to him, “Simon, three men are looking for you. So get up and go downstairs. Do not hesitate to go with them, for I have sent them.” Acts 10:1-20
Peter was still pondering this vision when the men arrived. He didn’t understand the meaning until later on when he traveled to Caesarea. We will travel to Caesarea next week and pick up the rest of the story from the book of Acts. There are hours of stories to tell about Jaffa’s history. I have highlighted only a few during our virtual tour. But I hope they gave you a taste for the biblical connection to Jaffa and its significance in Israel’s history.
Until next week, Shalom from Israel.
Top photo credit: Israe21C
Bottom Photo Credit: PlanetWare
