Welcome to the next stop on our virtual tour in Israel! Today we begin our walk on the Via Dolorosa (Way of Suffering), where nearly 2000 years ago Jesus of Nazareth carried his cross to his crucifixion. As we walk along the narrow stone-lined street through what is now the Muslim Quarter in Jerusalem’s Old City, there is an eerie silence. We have arrived before the shop keepers have opened their doors this morning. The usual hustle and bustle of the Arab shoppers and sounds of the clerks wooing people into their stores is replaced by a reflective silence as we make the ascent to each of the XIV Stations of the Cross.
The tradition of walking the Way of the Cross began about 1000 years ago during the Crusader Period. Pilgrims come here every year to physically carry a wooden cross all the way to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the traditional site of the crucifixion and resurrection. The walk is mostly up hill and each station is marked with a large round metal marker with the number of the station engraved in it.
A depiction of the Antonia Fortress as it probably appeared in Biblical times, along the Via Dolorosa. It shared a wall with the Temple Mount Complex. (generationword.com)
Station I is located in an Arab school, at what was the location of the Antonia Fortress 2000 years ago. It is situated on the north/western corner of the Temple Mount and was most likely the place where Jesus was sentenced to death. Pontius Pilate was the governor at the time and the Antonia was his administrative center. We are not really sure if Jesus was brought before Pilate here or if he was taken to Pilate’s residence on the other end of the city. But for the last 1000 years, at least, this has been the traditional site. It is far less important that we know exactly where it happened than that we know what happened. We won’t go into the school, but we will read the scripture passage this station refers to:
11”Meanwhile Jesus stood before the governor and the governor asked him, ‘Are you the king of the Jews?’ ‘You have said so,’ Jesus replied. 12When he was accused by the chief priests and the elders, he gave no answer. 13Then Pilate asked him, ‘Don’t you hear the testimony they are bringing against you?’ 14But Jesus made no reply, not even to a single charge—to the great amazement of the governor.
15Now it was the governor’s custom at the festival to release a prisoner chosen by the crowd. 16At that time they had a well-known prisoner whose name was Jesus Barabbas. 17So when the crowd had gathered, Pilate asked them, ‘Which one do you want me to release to you: Jesus Barabbas, or Jesus who is called the Messiah?’ 18For he knew it was out of self-interest that they had handed Jesus over to him. 19While Pilate was sitting on the judge’s seat, his wife sent him this message: ‘Don’t have anything to do with that innocent man, for I have suffered a great deal today in a dream because of him.’ 20But the chief priests and the elders persuaded the crowd to ask for Barabbas and to have Jesus executed.
21’Which of the two do you want me to release to you?’ asked the governor.
‘Barabbas,’ they answered. 22’What shall I do, then, with Jesus who is called the Messiah?’ Pilate asked. They all answered, ‘Crucify him!’ 23’Why? What crime has he committed?’ asked Pilate. But they shouted all the louder, ‘Crucify him!’ 24When Pilate saw that he was getting nowhere, but that instead, an uproar was starting, he took water and washed his hands in front of the crowd. ‘I am innocent of this man’s blood,’ he said. ‘It is your responsibility!’ 25All the people answered, ‘His blood is on us and on our children!’ Matthew 27:11-26
This is a sobering account of the verdict put upon Jesus. My heart grieves as I share these passages with you, for Jews and Christians alike, as these last two sentences carry a heavy burden for both groups. I hold myself back from making personal insights into these verses, as I can only believe that each person must reflect on these words themselves and ask God to help make sense out of them.
A view of the Crown of Thorns in the ceiling of the Church of Flagellation designed and built by Antonio Barluzzi. (israelandyou.com)
Station II is located just across the narrow roadway and into a courtyard that houses two churches. One is called the Church of the Flagellation and was built by the same incredible architect that we have already come to know and respect; Antonio Barluzzi. This church is a reflection of the physical cruelty that Jesus endured at the hands of the Roman soldiers. The rounded ceiling above the back of the church is decorated with a crown of thorns. It is quite emotional to come into this church and actually sense the agony that it portrays. The second church is called the Church of the Imposition of the Cross in remembrance of when Jesus put that cross on his back and began the long ascent to Golgotha, the hill he would be crucified on.
26Then he released Barabbas to them. But he had Jesus flogged and handed him over to be crucified. 27Then the governor’s soldiers took Jesus into the Praetorium and gathered the whole company of soldiers around him. 28They stripped him and put a scarlet robe on him, 29and then twisted together a crown of thorns and set it on his head. They put a staff in his right hand. Then they knelt in front of him and mocked him. ‘Hail, king of the Jews!’ they said. 30They spit on him, and took the staff and struck him on the head again and again. 31After they had mocked him, they took off the robe and put his own clothes on him. Then they led him away to crucify him. (Matthew 27:26-31)
With great sorrow and compassion, we continue walking uphill to Station III. This is an extra-biblical (meaning not recorded in the Bible) site where Jesus falls down from the weight of the cross.
Station IV is also extra-biblical and commemorates the place where Jesus looks up and sees his mother, Mary. Even though we don’t have a biblical account of this, it is not far-fetched to believe that his mother was alongside or near him the entire route. And most certainly she was experiencing her own agony in seeing what was happening with her son.
Station 5 along the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem. (unknown)
Continuing uphill and around the corner into the modern day Arab marketplace is Station V. This marks the biblical reference in Luke 23:26 –“As they led Jesus away, they grabbed Simon, a man from Cyrene, as he was coming in from the country, and they put the cross on him and made him carry it behind Jesus.” Do you have any idea where Cyrene is located today? It is modern-day Libya. I guess this man travelled a very long distance for his Passover Pilgrimage. What a difficult experience Simon had during what was supposed to be a very holy time for him.
Station VI is again an extra-biblical story recording an account of a woman named Veronica. According to Church tradition, Veronica was moved with sympathy when she saw Jesus carrying his cross to Golgotha and gave him her veil that he might wipe his forehead. Jesus accepted the offering, held it to his face, and then handed it back to her—the image of his face miraculously impressed upon it. This piece of cloth became known as the Veil of Veronica.
Continuing uphill to Station VII is where Jesus falls a 2nd time (also extra-biblical).
Station VIII is in reference where Jesus consoles the women of Jerusalem:
27”A large number of people followed him, including women who mourned and wailed for him. 28Jesus turned and said to them, ‘Daughters of Jerusalem, do not weep for me; weep for yourselves and for your children. 29For the time will come when you will say, ‘Blessed are the childless women, the wombs that never bore and the breasts that never nursed!’ 30Then they will say to the mountains, “Fall on us!” and to the hills, “Cover us!” 31For if people do these things when the tree is green, what will happen when it is dry?” (Luke 23:27-31)
Station 9 along the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem. (getty images)
Station IX places Jesus falling a 3rd time before he reaches the place where he would be crucified.
This has been a sorrowful part of our tour, but one that speaks into the reason why there has been such religious/spiritual passion between Jews and Christians for the last 2000 years. But, thankfully, bridges have been built between these two people groups in these last few generations. Our prayer should be that this will continue in future generations. Please pray for Israel. And please come to this amazing place; where lives are changed and God becomes more real than ever.
Next week, we will continue to Golgotha…
